1983
Improving Your Portraits
July 1983


“Improving Your Portraits,” New Era, July 1983, 21

Improving Your Portraits

The magic of photographs has captivated people for more than a century. Looking at wonderful images in books and magazines still makes me sigh. Each photographer has his own personal vision, his own “good eye.” A good eye can be developed by following instinct, by photographing subjects that appeal to your interests. Identify what you respond to emotionally and intellectually. In addition, understand your camera and some fundamental principles of light and composition that will help yield reliable results. Here are five ideas to help you develop a good eye.

1. Notice the light. Light is the most important tool in photography. Take a photograph at sunset and sunrise, in rain, on an overcast day, in open shade, and by window light. There is no light as nice as natural light. In portraiture, avoid photographing a person when the sun is directly overhead. It makes squinty eyes and dark shadows under the eyes. Try to photograph your subject early in the morning or late in the afternoon. But if you absolutely must photograph at midday, go into the open shade of trees or the extended shade of a building. Although bright sun is wonderful, as a photographer you will learn to appreciate overcast days and shade.

Indoors, window light is ideal for portraiture. Not the direct streams of sunlight but bright, indirect light. Pose your subject close to the window and open all shades and blinds. Do not put your subject between the camera and the window; the window does not need to be a part of your picture, just a source of light. You may wish to stand in front of the window or very close by the window as you expose the image.

Another simple way to increase the light from a window is to make a reflector. Cover a piece of 16-by-20-inch cardboard with tinfoil. Have an assistant hold the reflector to catch the light and direct it on your subject. A reflector isn’t usually necessary but may bring out additional detail in your photograph.

2. Look for spontaneous occasions when photographing people. Hellos and good-byes are sometimes emotional moments creating faces of love, fondness, or surprise. If you must pose a picture, click a few formal shots and then be ready to take a few more when everyone thinks it’s over. Sometimes the most relaxed expressions appear when your subject thinks you are finished. Laughter and tears create marvelous expressions. Be alert for the unplanned moment.

3. Notice the background when making a portrait. The background should complement the subject, not compete with it. As you look in the camera, remember that the tree behind your subject’s head will look as if it is growing out of his head in a two-dimensional print. If you move a few inches, it will become separate and perhaps add an interesting element to the total image.

One way to simplify the background, if your camera is not automatic, is to open the aperture wide (f 1.4, 2.8) and adjust the shutter speed appropriately. Then the distant background will be blurred, and your subject will be sharp.

4. Try several different approaches to your subject. Hold your camera at eye level, lie on the ground, climb on a chair. Walk to the right side and left side if possible. Keep the light and background in mind as you try different approaches.

5. Try making a “sandwich” with two or more slides. A way to step beyond the physical reality, this technique can be fun and surprising.

Begin by placing two slides together. It will be helpful if one or both of the slides is slightly overexposed. Also, it may be helpful to have a large, clear area such as sky on one or both of the slides. When you have made a pleasing image, peel off the cardboard slide mount, and remount the “sandwich” in a new single slide mount. Be careful not to scratch the film. Various kinds of slide mounts can be purchased at photo stores, where instructions on mounting are also available.

You can learn better photography from studying both your good and bad results. Look at photos in books and magazines and analyze what makes them effective. Think about your photos before you take them. Plan different approaches before you leave home. Forethought gives you more possibilities, experience develops your “eye,” and success gives you the feeling of satisfaction that comes from knowing “I did it!”

Photos by Anna and Michael Keogh

200 mm lens. Golden light lasted only a few minutes. Underexposure can intensify color.

50 mm lens. Window light gives good results. Dark background gives emphasis.

135 mm lens. Shapes and colors around the subject were carefully designed.

135 mm. Soft west light, background pleasantly out of focus. Subject needn’t look at camera.

135 mm lens. Short, action-freezing exposure at 1/1000 second.

200 mm. Many colors of filters are available. This red filter required a two stop change of exposure. Don’t look at the sun. Bracket exposure for the sky.

Sandwich. A.) 200 mm. Star filter on the sun created the burst of light. B.) 50 mm. Boy and bubbles with a light plain wall in background

50 mm. Double exposure. 2 exposures on the same film. Underexposure helps here.

Sandwich. A.) 200 mm. Figure and birds. B.) 200 mm. Moon.